Jun-01-2017 05:56 PM
Jun-14-2017 08:28 AM
ticki2 wrote:
Jim , perhaps I am overly optimistic of the test and thought it would show up any leaks . I am half wondering now if it is not a condensation issue under certain conditions . My camper is riveted aluminum skin , aluminum ribs and aluminum interior skin with factory spayed on foam insulation . But if that were the case , being the camper is now 49 years old , the wood wings should have rotted out long ago .
Jun-14-2017 05:32 AM
Jun-14-2017 04:18 AM
Jun-13-2017 04:19 PM
Jun-05-2017 10:08 AM
maxum1989 wrote:SidecarFlip wrote:
Been doing it for a few years no with no issues. I'll have to get out the Dwyer and see what it's pushing...sometime.
Don't understand 'getting the desired pressure' What is your desired pressure? Is it the same as my desired pressure or is your pressure different and what determines the correct pressure? I don't believe you know and I don't either nor do I want to.
Just enough pressure to escape from the compromised seal areas. Nothing more.
...very little air movement required.
I think you are reading way more into the procedure than is necessary.
Not trying to 'inflate' a camper like an inner tube, just get air movement (positive pressure to ambient pressure transition.
Don't make it complex. It isn't.
I don't do the 'what if stuff' I do the what is wrong stuff much better.
If you took my responses as being argumentative that was not my intent. You can use whatever pressure you like.
My desired pressure when I do this test at home is to obtain the same pressure that the Sealtech machine uses when getting this done at a Dealership. After all, this is the test we are trying to emulate isn't it? So why not use the pressure they use? It was tough to find it when I tried looking for it but eventually I found it. I do not remember where that is now though.
Jun-05-2017 09:48 AM
Jun-04-2017 11:29 AM
SidecarFlip wrote:
Been my personal experience that your average Home Depot leaf blower won't produce enough pressure to compromise any impending leak points that aren't already compromised.
You 'think' your camper is a sealed space... It isn't by a long shot.
Jun-04-2017 09:40 AM
Jun-03-2017 03:00 PM
SidecarFlip wrote:
Been doing it for a few years no with no issues. I'll have to get out the Dwyer and see what it's pushing...sometime.
Don't understand 'getting the desired pressure' What is your desired pressure? Is it the same as my desired pressure or is your pressure different and what determines the correct pressure? I don't believe you know and I don't either nor do I want to.
Just enough pressure to escape from the compromised seal areas. Nothing more.
...very little air movement required.
I think you are reading way more into the procedure than is necessary.
Not trying to 'inflate' a camper like an inner tube, just get air movement (positive pressure to ambient pressure transition.
Don't make it complex. It isn't.
I don't do the 'what if stuff' I do the what is wrong stuff much better.
Jun-03-2017 01:59 PM
Jun-03-2017 01:42 PM
Jun-03-2017 10:07 AM
Jun-03-2017 09:26 AM
Jun-03-2017 09:25 AM
maxum1989 wrote:gitpicker2009 wrote:
I hope this doesn't sound stupid, but can't you actually be causing the leak with that type of test? I mean, if you have a closed system, like a truck camper and start pushing air into it, aren't you sort of just waiting for the weakest point to pop? Again, I'm just asking.
A reasonable question. With too much pressure damage can occur which is why a manometer should be used to monitor the pressure. Without knowing the pressure being applied to the interior of the RV you are just guessing and the desired results of finding leaks will be minimized.