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Question about lowering unhitched 2 wheel travel trailer

OregonMan
Explorer
Explorer
Hi I have a 20 foot 2 wheel 2018 wolf pup travel trailer from Forest River. It has a manual crank to unhitch and I use a cinder block underneath the metal hitch bar to give clearance for the truck to get out. This is probably a dumb question, but is it safe to lower the travel trailer once unhitched? My main concern is: is there a bunch of weight being supported by the hitch bar being propped up on the cinder block for the truck clearance? Will lowering it cause damage? My trailer is currently at a slight angle downward and would like to correct if safe to do so. Thanks for any feedback.
16 REPLIES 16

StirCrazy
Nomad III
Nomad III
OregonMan wrote:
Thank you for the feedback. I actually switched to using a cinder block because the blocks of wood I was using cracked. What do you guys think about using leveling blocks? This cinder block is solid, I did the throw test a few times before taking it. Either way, I feel kinda dumb for keeping the trailer propped up while using it now. The slight downward angle isn't that bad but more concerned now about doing damage to the tongue of the jack since it's on the side that I sleep on. Gonna make sure to lift my stabilizer jacks first then tomorrow will lower the trailer and hopefully enjoy a more level existence. Thanks guys.


are you actualy using a cinder block or a concrete block, there is a big difference between the two. I use concrete blocks to put under the jacks to get my camper on and off the truck but I would never use a real cinder block.

Steve
2014 F350 6.7 Platinum
2016 Cougar 330RBK
1991 Slumberqueen WS100

aftermath
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am with Delta Bravo, perhaps us Spokane guys think alike.:)

Look, it is pretty simple. Back your trailer into place, place wood 2 bys to level it from side to side. Chock the wheels. Unhitch from your tow vehicle by using the tongue jack. Drive the tow vehicle away. Use the tongue jack to level the trailer from front to back. Put down your stabilizers and you are set. Everything is level, nothing is at risk of breaking. You can put some blocks of wood under the tongue jack if you need additional height to get it level. Use wood blocks. If yours cracked, get some new ones. Leave the cement blocks at home, unless you like tossing them around for exercise.
2017 Toyota Tundra, Double Cab, 5.7L V8
2006 Airstream 25 FB SE
Equalizer Hitch

CavemanCharlie
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yes you can raise and lower it after unhooking from the tow vehicle.

Don't use a cinder block. A good solid wooden block is best.

deltabravo
Nomad
Nomad
I'm not sure what item you are calling a "hitch bar"....
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator

opnspaces
Navigator
Navigator
OregonMan wrote:
is it safe to lower the travel trailer once unhitched? My main concern is: is there a bunch of weight being supported by the hitch bar being propped up on the cinder block for the truck clearance? Will lowering it cause damage?


Yes it is completely safe to raise and lower your trailer tongue by using the tongue jack. No lowering the jack will not cause damage. Raising and lowering the tongue is what the jack is there for.

There is a difference between a cinder block and something solid like a concrete paver stone. A Cinder block is hollow and extremely fragile. A concrete paver stone is solid and stronger. I would still use a block of wood over a solid concrete block.
.
2001 Suburban 4x4. 6.0L, 4.10 3/4 ton **** 2005 Jayco Jay Flight 27BH **** 1986 Coleman Columbia Popup

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
“Throw test?” Roflmao
All I can say is there’s a reason things like hairdryers come with electrical hazard warnings and lawn mowers have a picture of where not to put your hands when it’s running….
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
OregonMan wrote:
Thank you for the feedback. I actually switched to using a cinder block because the blocks of wood I was using cracked. What do you guys think about using leveling blocks? This cinder block is solid, I did the throw test a few times before taking it. Either way, I feel kinda dumb for keeping the trailer propped up while using it now. The slight downward angle isn't that bad but more concerned now about doing damage to the tongue of the jack since it's on the side that I sleep on. Gonna make sure to lift my stabilizer jacks first then tomorrow will lower the trailer and hopefully enjoy a more level existence. Thanks guys.

I don’t know what in the actual heck you’re trying to say.
Are you saying you’ve been afraid to lower the tongue after unhooking from the truck?
But saying downward angle and jack propped up in the same context???
Use your words, leave the cinder block out of the discussion. Not sure what Bearing ( no pun intended) it has on your apparent conundrum anyway.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

ken56
Explorer
Explorer
Does the jack have a pad on the tube or is it just the round tube? If it is just the round tube then the small footprint of the tube puts a lot of stress on a very small portion of the plastic pads. No problem using leveling pads if it has a foot on the jack tube.

As far as leveling the trailer front to back there is absolutely no concerns about damage. They are engineered with a tongue weight sufficient to support the trailer. Be certain to always use your stabilizer jacks on the front and back so it doesn't tip being a single axle. Too much weight behind the axle can make the front lift off the ground. Always use chocks too.

OregonMan
Explorer
Explorer
Thank you for the feedback. I actually switched to using a cinder block because the blocks of wood I was using cracked. What do you guys think about using leveling blocks? This cinder block is solid, I did the throw test a few times before taking it. Either way, I feel kinda dumb for keeping the trailer propped up while using it now. The slight downward angle isn't that bad but more concerned now about doing damage to the tongue of the jack since it's on the side that I sleep on. Gonna make sure to lift my stabilizer jacks first then tomorrow will lower the trailer and hopefully enjoy a more level existence. Thanks guys.

NamMedevac_70
Explorer II
Explorer II
Yes on the wood blocks I have sometimes used for many years with heavier trailer but then switched over to the orange RV blocks designed for that purpose. They are safer to me inexpensive to me.

Sjm9911
Explorer
Explorer
They sell jack stands for the tounge also. But as allready said, a block of wood is a much better idea. And lift or lower away!
2012 kz spree 220 ks
2020 Silverado 2500
Equalizer ( because i have it)
Formerly a pup owner.

Grit_dog
Nomad III
Nomad III
Agree on the cinder block thing, but really don’t understand the question.
Based on what I think your asking, yes use the jack to raise or lower the front to level out the trailer.
Although you may be asking something else because what I said above just seems to obvious to bea question.
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold

BarabooBob
Explorer III
Explorer III
I second what Mitch said. I would never use a cinder block to support anything like a car or trailer. I had a shop teacher back n the 70's that would jack up his own car and place a cinder block under the frame. After lowering the jack, he would tap the block with a light hammer. The cinder block would shatter and the car dropped to the ground. I never forgot that.
Bob & Dawn Married 34 years
2017 Viking 17RD
2011 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost 420 lb/ft
Retired

JRscooby
Explorer II
Explorer II
MitchF150 wrote:
I really would not use a cinder block... I like solid blocks of wood.

I use a couple of 4x8 blocks that are only around 18" long and stack them.

I can break a cinder block with a small hammer... Or just dropping it..

The cinder block is heavier than my chunks of scrape wood, so there you go.. 🙂

Good luck!

Mitch


Thank you!

OP to address your question; Most, if not all people that sleep in trailers adjust the height of tongue after unhook to level front to back. The only issue is with trailer chocked tight long travel on a short trailer it can stress where the jack mounts to tongue, or try to bend jack. This stress is eliminated by a wheel on the bottom of jack.
Now sometimes the jack does not have enough travel. Prop the tongue on blocks, then adjust block under jack