Want to get Maxxis Load Range D...will my rims support it?

[dfoxhoven]

So I've decided to go with the Maxxis tires...my rims are 205/75R15 and current tires are load range C. I would like to go up to load range D..it may be "overkill"...but I prefer overkill! With that being said...I've read that my rims must be able to support the additional PSI, etc? I've looked at my rims on the back and it has stamps...but nothing that indicates PSI, etc. Just wondering if I'm worrying about nothing?

[FastEagle]

The simple solution. Write down the part number/model number found on your rims and call their manufacturer.

FastEagle

[coolbreeze01]

I went from 205 75 R15 C to 225 75 R15 E tires over 12,000 miles and 4 years ago on the same rims. I'll let you know how it worked out when I buy new tires in a year or two.

[Huntindog]

Slow down,,, Lets not get all tangled up in our underwear here.:B

The focus is to gain RELIABILITY by increasing the capacity of the tires.
Since there are many reports of tires being run right on the edge failing, this is a prudent thing to do.

We don't see many reports of rim failures here...So it is safe to assume that a rim used at it's rated weight capacity will be reliable.

So we up the capacity of the tires and people are shouting that we haven't gained any capacity...True enough, but that is not the point.
The TT still weighs what it did before the increase in capacity, right? So long as the original rims were rated for the weight of the TT, then any excess capacity is just that excess.

Now, in order to have the additional weight capacity that the higher capacity tires are capable of available for use, a PSI increase will usually be needed. In most cases the original rims are capable of SOME psi increase.
Simply using the rim maximum psi rating will do the trick nicely.. It is not necessary for the rim to match the maximum that the tire is capable of as that will never happen..

Now if rims were failing at the same rate as tires are when used within their ratings, that would be a different problem and require a different solution.

[fla-gypsy]

PartyMarty wrote:
I think goducks and lowsuv are on to something here .
that dexstar chart lists a maximum weight rating and a coincident psi .
the coincident psi also matches a logical tire that fits that wheel .
plus dexstar has steel wheels that are listed at 90 and 110 psi that also match the tire rating .
looks like a weight rating chart to me .
that chart does not explicitly say the wheel will not hold a psi higher than shown .
it does say the weight the wheel will support is limited to that weight rating .
ambiguous at best for psi .

They may or may not be correct. The real question is are you willing to stake your safety on what might be? It is a lot easier to note the max weight and psi rating and abide by it. If the wheel had a weight rating but did not give a max psi rating that theory would have some basis. You can still upgrade the tires to a better load range and follow the inflation chart of the manufacturer and still potentially gain some reserve without exceeding the listed psi rating for the wheels. I will look at my wheels again when I am under the trailer. The last time I looked I found the weight rating but wasn't really looking for a psi rating.

[PartyMarty]

I think goducks and lowsuv are on to something here .
that dexstar chart lists a maximum weight rating and a coincident psi .
the coincident psi also matches a logical tire that fits that wheel .
plus dexstar has steel wheels that are listed at 90 and 110 psi that also match the tire rating .
looks like a weight rating chart to me .
that chart does not explicitly say the wheel will not hold a psi higher than shown .
it does say the weight the wheel will support is limited to that weight rating .
ambiguous at best for psi .

[JIMNLIN]

lowsuv wrote:
in actual practice the rv wheel is not the weak link .
the rv tire is the weak link

Actual weak link between the tire or wheel will be the lessor pressure or capacity rating of the two.

For the OP to take advantage of all the D tire reserve capacity and its higher rating he will have to go with a wheel that has at least 65 psi rating and proper load rating and pump them to 65 psi.

IMO your not saying what you mean I'm guessing. Surely you don't think all 15" steel wheels are rated at 80 psi.

I have four trailers with 15"/16" tires and all have pressure and load ratings either stamped or a sticker. .
I buy most of my trailer wheels from a equipment mfg down the road from me.
I dropped by one time to get a spare tire mount for my car hauler. They were loading a 28' box truck with pallets of boxed wheels. I made a comment about faulty wheels and their reply was the wheels had no pressure rating id on them. It simply was to big of a liability issue for the company to sell or mount a wheel without a max pressure rating.

[fla-gypsy]

Dexstar lists a maximum weight and pressure on their wheels

[goducks10]

Go here, http://www.tredittire.com/Products-C13.aspx find your wheel and look at the load rating. Next find a compatible tire. All the wheels have the same exact load rating as what ST tires have. Coincidence? Don't think so.

[Lowsuv]

i only addressed psi .
i have no problem if the wheel has a payload stamped on it .
most steel wheels have no stamp .
some aluminum wheels do have a stamp .
a steel wheel with a 2600 # rating does not state a maximum psi .
the largest 15 inch ST tire commonly available is the 225/75R 15 load range E which requires 80 psi to carry its maximum weight .
my position is that i GAIN reserve capacity by upgrading my tire to an 2850 # rating even though the wheel may only have a 2600 pound rating .
in actual practice the rv wheel is not the weak link .
the rv tire is the weak link .
i am an advocate of " lets be safe out there "
upgrading the weakest link , the rv tire , is the most practical method of eliminating tire blowouts .
that means an upgrade in weight rating in pounds and includes tougher load range D ( 65 psi max ) and load range E ( 80 psi max ) .

[fla-gypsy]

Lowsuv wrote:
i had an aluminum wheel fail on my 1997 chevy 2500 .
it was not a catastrophic event .
we had towed our trailer to the Oregon Coast
the wheel developed a hairline crack at a rim shoulder which was imperceptible .
the wheel / tire combination simply lost air pressure .
no drama .
an aluminum wheel is not repairable . i had to replace it .
regarding steel wheels :
the representations by some that steel wheels are rated for 65 psi based on certain tire charts is a misunderstanding of those tire charts .
when the chart says that a tire / wheel combo is 2271# at 65 psi that is not a limitation of the wheel , but rather the tire .
for those that insist that a wheel made of steel is only good for 65 psi yet there are tens millions of tires rated for 80 psi just plain does not make logical sense .

Every wheel has a weight rating aside from the tire rating, you need to rethink that. My steel wheels are stamped at 2600 lbs max weight by the manufacturer.

[JIMNLIN]

lowsuv wrote:
the representations by some that steel wheels are rated for 65 psi based on certain tire charts is a misunderstanding of those tire charts .
when the chart says that a tire / wheel combo is 2271# at 65 psi that is not a limitation of the wheel , but rather the tire .
for those that insist that a wheel made of steel is only good for 65 psi yet there are tens millions of tires rated for 80 psi just plain does not make logical sense .

Makes perfect sense.
Wheels have their own max pressure/load rating numbers just like tires.
Example is Dexstar wheels show 15" steel wheel rated at 50 psi and another at 65 psi and another at 75 psi and at 80 psi.

I would suggest anyone not familiar with wheel pressure/load ratings need to be looking at Dexstar wheel website or etrailerpart website and several other webs that sell steel trailer wheels and educate themselves on all the different wheel pressure ratings.

Some brands of aluminum wheels pressure is determined by the valve stem but will have a max pressure but not id'ed as such. Some brands of aluminum wheels are stamped with their max pressure/load and some aren't.

Lets be safe out here when it comes to tires and wheels.

[Lowsuv]

i had an aluminum wheel fail on my 1997 chevy 2500 .
it was not a catastrophic event .
we had towed our trailer to the Oregon Coast
the wheel developed a hairline crack at a rim shoulder which was imperceptible .
the wheel / tire combination simply lost air pressure .
no drama .
an aluminum wheel is not repairable . i had to replace it .
regarding steel wheels :
the representations by some that steel wheels are rated for 65 psi based on certain tire charts is a misunderstanding of those tire charts .
when the chart says that a tire / wheel combo is 2271# at 65 psi that is not a limitation of the wheel , but rather the tire .
for those that insist that a wheel made of steel is only good for 65 psi yet there are tens millions of tires rated for 80 psi just plain does not make logical sense .

[fla-gypsy]

dfoxhoven wrote:

fla-gypsy wrote:
Did the wheel stamp show a weight rating? It is there somewhere.

Yes...it said lbs...I couldn't quite make out what the stamp said...appeared to look something like 25 or 250...not 100%

Need to narrow it down to make a good decision. If the wheels are rated I would definitely go to a better load range.

[FastEagle]

Tire manufacturers a required by regulation to provide a list of rims suitable for each tire size. If your current rims can be found on the replacements tires rim list I would say you are in the ballpark.

Your tire retailer will have a copy of the list.

FastEagle