5th wheel frame recall repair

[TorQ]

We are looking at a 2001 National Palisades trailer that is in excellent condition. Unfortunatly, just before purchase we discovered that there was a recall on this model for the following:

"THE TRAILER PIN BOX STEEL STRUCTURE COULD FAIL AT THE WELDS OR TUBULAR STEEL STRUCTURE DUE TO FATIGUE.

Hazard: THIS COULD LEAD TO SEPARATION OF THE STEEL TUBES COMPRISING THE GOOSENECK AND PARTIAL OR COMPLETE DETACHMENT OF THE PIN BOX CONNECTION BETWEEN THE TOW VEHICLE AND THE FIFTH WHEEL GOOSENECK STEEL STRUCTURE.

Remedy: DEALERS WILL REINFORCE THE GOOSENECK STRUCTURAL STEEL ASSEMBLY."

I am not familiar with the the structure of a 5th wheel frame so I am having a hard time understanding the severity of this issue and if it can be repaired for a reasonable price. We are calling dealerships for their input and quotes but I thought it would be wise to seek your help in understanding this issue. Thanks.

[TorQ]

Thank you all for your helpful replies. Due to the time constraints on reviewing this trailer I've had to pass and have moved on to a different trailer. Your input will be helpful for my future reference.

[twodownzero]

Given how thick the steel is we are talking about, if there are weld issues, it can be fixed easily. If you are great west tx or southern nm, pm me and I can recommend a shop owned by my friend. He can weld anything.

[Dayle1]

If you buy the trailer, there are ways to measure how much flex is in the frame between hooked and unhooked from the tow vehicle. Then you can decide if this specific unit needs repair or not.

[shadows4]

Just googled it. They look like nice 5ers. If your comfortable with the price and the possible cost of the repair I say go for it. You could also use the cost of the repair to possibly reduce the asking price of the trailer. Good luck and if you do buy let us know about the repair.

[laknox]

TorQ, nobody really answered your question, so...

A gooseneck trailer is pretty simple. Just look at the larger utility trailers or stock trailers you see. That type of frame, that hooks to a ball in the bed, is a gooseneck. A fifth wheel frame/hitch is what you see on most any semi-truck. Think of a lowboy trailer with a box built on top, clear over the king pin and you have a basic FW RV. The problem occurs in the pin box area of the FW. You've probably used a cheater on a wrench to move a stuck nut/bolt, so you should understand the torque that lever gives you. Look at a FW pin box, especially an extended box, and you've got a lever arm sticking out and acting on the internal framework. THIS is where the frame breakdowns typically happen, right around the pin box, but they can also twist the supporting cross-members to the point of breaking out at the side frame rails.

The other thing that can happen in the front area, is that the screws anchoring the house framework either break, weren't installed correctly or weren't installed at all. The "house frame" is structural and, if it's not securely fastened down, the main frame looses a lot of its structural strength, so you get flexing in the area of the dropdown step. A sign if this is, usually, cracking of the sidewall around the bedroom slide (if any) or right at the drop. You'll also likely see the caulking cracking or actual separation of the sidewall from the lower frame.

Lyle

[TorQ]

It very well may have been repaired. Unfortunately, the current own doesn't know. So I would have to assume it wasn't. I was definitely not considering having the work done at an RV shop. Based on someone else's reply I called a trailer shop that does custom fabricating and repairs. It seems like they would have the proper knowledge about trailers but also regular experience in repairing the steal structure. In response to @colliehauler, the trailer is 10K, most likely worth more, so sinking a couple of grand into a repair doesn't sound like a stretch.

[Weldon]

The repair may have already been made. If not it is likely your local welding shop will do the job better than some RV shop.

[colliehauler]

As long as there are no stress cracks in the fiberglass where the frame starts it's drop. This indicates flexing and the repairs could be significantly more then repairing the frame. Without pictures it's all speculation. It sounds like you already know what your getting into and prepared to spend the money on repair. The unit would have to be extremely cheap to make it cost effective to repair.

[MFL]

You sound like a handy, get her done type of guy! You have the proper fabrication type trailer place near you, know the hourly rate, sounds like this may work for you. Check the tire date/condition, keep in mind, bearing service, brake service/adjustment, battery condition, appliances, etc, that you are likely familiar with, as a fulltimer.

Price right....go for it!

Jerry

[TorQ]

I called a local trailer shop that does fabricating and repairs as well and they charge $150 an hour. I would expect the work to be done for less than 1K but would be willing to pay up to 2. Its a National RV Palisades and it was kept under cover when not in use. The roof is in amazing condition which is the real stand out for a trailer of this age. The owners say it was used at least once in the last couple of years. It seems like it was a premium trailer for its time and still outshines many of the NEW trailers we've looked at. To answer your question, I'm pretty comfortable with RV repair at this point. We've been full timing in a 1998 28 foot Class C for the last year and half. I nearly completely rebuilt the bunk and right wall as well as completed many maintenance and customization projects on the rig as well.

[MFL]

I kind of agree with Jim ^^^, but we do not know if it is a great value for the price, or the history, is it still being used, or been parked for many years? Can it be hooked up, to check for movement of pinbox, or frame? Is there a trailer specialty shop nearby? I have a great place less than 10 miles from my house, that could easily make this repair.

I would expect the repair price to be higher than the $600 that Jim was charged in 03, but could be less than 1K. If mostly labor, at say $120 an hour, likely one 8 hour day at most.

As with any RV, there are likely many things that will need attention. OP...how handy are you, to do smaller fixes/maintenance?

Jerry

[JIMNLIN]

I certainly wouldn't pass up a well priced 18 year old camper if it was what I wanted.
Hell if the failure hasn't happened in 18 years it ain't going to happen if the trailer has lots of towing miles.

Another point is maybe the unit already has the recall work done.

Can it be fixed at a reasonable price ?? Much depends as much depends on the shop doing the work. The shop that did mine charged just over 600 bucks. That included dropping the underside filon panel.....reinforcing the structure....buttoning and resealing the filon panel. That was in '03 and prices are higher now IMO.

[TorQ]

Of course I realize that no one would do the work for free. The point was to understand the problem and then see if it could be solved for a reasonable amount of money.

At this point there isn't a party involved that can assure us that the problem can be safely rectified so we will be passing. Its the right
thing to do but man what an amazing trailer to pass up. There may be a ton of trailers out there but the good ones in our price bracket are few and far between. Thanks all for your input.

[B_O__Plenty]

Who's going to do the recall? Are they in business anymore. Nobody will do this for free except the manufacturer. I'd walk away. There's tons of old trailers out there. Why pick one that has a defect.
B.O.