โMay-04-2022 09:19 AM
โMay-15-2022 06:16 PM
โMay-15-2022 05:55 PM
โMay-15-2022 04:17 PM
โMay-15-2022 02:31 PM
โMay-15-2022 02:20 PM
โMay-15-2022 01:28 PM
โMay-15-2022 12:56 PM
โMay-15-2022 12:20 PM
โMay-15-2022 12:14 PM
BFL13 wrote:
First thing is the batteries while being charged get up to a higher voltage than what they rest at when fully charged and not being charged.
So 14.6 if that is what the charger gets them to and then after they stay at that until fully charged (amps have tapered right down, and hydrometer says SG is up to where it belongs when fully charged--say 1.285 or whatever then they sit at 12.75 or whatever. Takes time for that voltage to fall and until it gets down to 12.75 say they are passing through 13 on the way down, that is called a "surface charge" the amount it is over "resting" voltage.
Second thing is the battery can look good from its voltage before any load is on it, then once loaded, the voltage will drop somewhat depending on the amps being drawn by the load. eg if batts are at 12.6 and the furnace comes on, it might be showing 12.4 or whatever.
BUT if the furnace comes on and voltage drops to 12.0, then you know the batts are "collapsing under load" so out comes the Visa card. ๐
Meanwhile, the converter (with 120v input) with no battery in the RV is supposed to show 13.6ish and run the 12v things. It too might collapse under load or have a weird voltage that is too high like 18v or whatever.
With the WFCO if the battery is connected and the battery is low enough so the battery voltage stays under 13.2v (the trigger amount) for its initial spike, then the WFCO should kick into 14.4v. Many don't for various reasons ever see that low of an initial spike so they stay at 13.6 and only do a slow charge on the battery.
So yes, two separate things to look at before connecting the battery, then see what happens.
Your overnight drop in battery voltage could still be from an unknown mystery draw. If you have an ammeter or battery monitor that shows amps, you can see if there is an amps draw right away where it might not show as a voltage sag until some time has passed.
Some mystery draws that have been found include 12v tank heaters, somebody pulled the emergency brake switch on a trailer, TV antenna booster, 12v lights in underside compartments left on with doors closed so you can't see the light is on, 7-pin connected and the tow vehicle is drawing from the RV battery (happens with Chevs--no isolator like a Ford has)
If going to get batteries load tested they are supposed to be full when the test is done.
โMay-15-2022 11:02 AM
โMay-15-2022 10:10 AM
โMay-14-2022 05:52 PM
โMay-14-2022 05:28 PM
Thermoguy wrote:If the voltage drops from 14 to 12 when a load is attached it would seem to indicate the converter is shot. The battery should jump up in voltage half volt to a full volt from the resting voltage when connected to the WFCO.
Thanks for the input.
I did measure the red and white leads coming from the converter with no battery hooked up and it measured 14.65 (aprox). I measured the white ground and red lead in the battery compartment and it read the same. I then hooked up the batteries and measured, 12.something, don't recall the exact number. That tells me that when not hooked up the converter is trying to charge at max level, then when hooked up it is going into float mode? maybe?...
I will unplug the trailer, measure after letting it sit for a bit, then measure again in the morning - to see what draw I get overnight. I have checked every light, etc, nothing is on that can be turned off.
Any other suggestions?
โMay-14-2022 04:54 PM
โMay-14-2022 04:02 PM
Thermoguy wrote:8935 is a 35 amp converter. Probably a 30 amp RV that distributes 30 amps of 120vac.
I apologize for hijacking this thread. I am interested in a possible converter upgrade as well.
First, I have a WFCO WF-8935 - 30AMP, not 55AMP. Trying to decide if I have a battery charging problem or battery problem. I have 2 2year old 6V Duracell batteries. When I put them on an external charger, they charge right up, but aren't holding the charge for long. Using the installed WFCO charger, they never seem to get to full charge status. This is a new problem as I just installed the batteries after winter storage a couple weeks ago. We are getting ready for memorial day weekend and turns out I booked the wrong site with no power or water, not sure how I missed that. But, we have a generator and can top off the batteries, just don't want to do that every day or even try to get away without using the gen if I can.
Question 1. How do I test to see if the converter is working correctly and charging the batteries? I feel like I'm not putting my leads in the right place, only ever getting a little over 12v DC.
Question 2 if I replace the converter, what is a good substitute? Will the PD 4635WV slide right in? Is there a case to go larger? 45 or 55 AMP? If so, what else do you need to change?
Any other suggestions? Not a newby to RV's but have never had to mess with the electrical system other than switching to 6v and finding a disconnected ground which caused my electrical system to not work...
Thanks in advance for any advice. Just an FYI, not switching to LiIon, Not adding solar... etc. What I have works when it's working. We only boondock 3-4 times a year and the gen works fine to recharge the batteries when it works. We try to camp away from other people when we can.