2003 fiberglass TC not looking so good …now what?

[campingwiththor]

My 2003 BigFoot truck camper is all fiberglass.

The exterior has really started to denigrate… (when it rains the windows get white steaks from the chalk like fiberglass powder runoff)

I see so many wax type products advertised. Would like to know if anyone can offer a recommendation as to how to get it cleaned properly and what wax or other product can I apply to improve the appearance etc…

Thanks a million!

[Grit_dog]

^what he said.
although I’m suspecting the OP may not be in the position to do any strenuous work to the camper.
And if not able to maintain and/or cover it (like how the current situation developed) then it will be time and $ wasted to diy or pay someone to sand cut and polish it.
Fwiw, I’ll have about 4 hours here into doing the same on the transom of my 20’ boat.

[Veebyes]

If the poster is serious about restoration it is going to take work & plenty of it. There is no magic product that makes an afternoons work out of it.

Had my share of taking care of boats for forty plus years.

3M is a very big name in fiberglass maintenance products. Three grades of compound are available from a coarse to a fine. Alot depends on the thickness of the gelcoat. Gelcoat is heavy and expensive stuff. RV builders are not known for using more than absolutely necessary. Being too aggressive will go through gelcoat very quickly if not careful.

[Mayor30]

Maquiers makes a 3 pack which includes an oxidation remover then 2 different waxes.It really brings out the shine. You can't do that without removing the oxidation.

[Grit_dog]

Veebyes wrote:
There comes a point in time when the gelcoat has become so deteriorated that it cannot be restored.

Oh sure it can be compounded & resealed with any number of DIY products but they will not last very long.

The only restoration method, not cheap, that will last is a thorough preparation and recoating using a product such as Awlgrip or Emron

These are extremely tough marine epoxy products that, finished with a couple coats of clear coat, will last for many years without the labour needed to keep gelcoat looking good.

I stress again, this type of coating is not cheap, but the results achieved by a professional, WOW.

For sure, it could be too far gone. But the OP hasn’t indicated, nor am I sure they know. Since it’s likely they haven’t even tried to shine it back up.
The products you mention are good, very good as far as I know, however Awlgrip Topcoat and Imron are both urethanes. Acrylic urethane as I remember. Or basically the same as any quality urethane car paint/clear. They are not epoxy based. Huge difference. Biggest one being epoxy based paints generally have horrible UV resistance. And even the variations formulated for UV exposure are not great.
Imron, as I recall, got its notoriety back in the day because it was one of the first urethanes out there, replacing the typical lacquer paints with greater durability and UV resistance. In the last 30+ years it has become the norm and no longer “better.”
Good discussion, although I feel Thoreau may have left the building. Hopefully they’re trying the Jimk method. Because painting that camper is likely not a sound financial decision unless set up and able to diy.

[RLS7201]

I'll give Zep Wet Look a +. I've been using it on my 95 Bounder for 15-18 years. As noted, preparation is a must!

Richard

[dodge_guy]

Grit dog wrote:

IB853347201 wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
If you really like it. Have it painted. Use a good sealer on the fiberglass and then whatever color for the paint. Wax will only last for a short time then it will go back to being chalky.

This is the best long lasting solution

The economics of it, aside, of course….
I was sorta thinking that someone who is rocking a 20 year old truck and camper combo may not want to spend as much to make it look nice as it is actually worth as it sits.
Especially when there are other good options.

Although this assuming the OP isn’t going to paint it themselves since they were looking for the easy button.
Maybe y’all don’t understand what it would cost?
Heck, just the prep work to paint would be roughly equivalent in time/cost as buffing it out. (Assuming it’s saveable).

I agree to have someone do it is t cheap. I just painted my golf cart that is a 1980. The fiberglass had to be completely restored, reglassed on the backside with resin, then regelcoated on the outside. The primed, sealed and painted with a 2 part system. In materials alone I have over $700. I’m sure if you are just going to use a sealer, then paint it with single stage that would be the most cost effective. If you can do it yourself it would be well worth it. If you have to pay to have it done then you are talking $$$$$$$ you would have to have a sentimental attachment to it to do that.

[Veebyes]

There comes a point in time when the gelcoat has become so deteriorated that it cannot be restored.

Oh sure it can be compounded & resealed with any number of DIY products but they will not last very long.

The only restoration method, not cheap, that will last is a thorough preparation and recoating using a product such as Awlgrip or Emron

These are extremely tough marine epoxy products that, finished with a couple coats of clear coat, will last for many years without the labour needed to keep gelcoat looking good.

I stress again, this type of coating is not cheap, but the results achieved by a professional, WOW.

[JimK-NY]

campingwiththoreau wrote:
Wow! That’s is interesting. Will definitely look into that. Thank u

JimK-NY wrote:
Get a scotch kitchen pad and some bar keepers friend or bon ami. Scrub off the old oxidation. If the surface is still white, you are in luck. Prepare the entire surface, then apply several light coats of Zep acrylic floor finish. You should end up with a decent shiny finish that will last for years with minimal upkeep.

You will be able to find many threads on this approach. As a quick summary:
You need to be careful about surface prep. Remove all oxidation, dirt and old waxes. If not the finish is likely to flake over time.

The Zep finish will not start out as shiny as a carefully done wax job, but it will last for a very long time. My original Zep finish is now about 7-8 years old and still looks great. Every year or so, I wash and then apply another very thin coat to renew the gloss.

There are several versions of Zep acrylic floor finish. Any will work but the "wet" look version will have the highest gloss.

[Grit_dog]

IB853347201 wrote:

dodge guy wrote:
If you really like it. Have it painted. Use a good sealer on the fiberglass and then whatever color for the paint. Wax will only last for a short time then it will go back to being chalky.

This is the best long lasting solution

The economics of it, aside, of course….
I was sorta thinking that someone who is rocking a 20 year old truck and camper combo may not want to spend as much to make it look nice as it is actually worth as it sits.
Especially when there are other good options.

Although this assuming the OP isn’t going to paint it themselves since they were looking for the easy button.
Maybe y’all don’t understand what it would cost?
Heck, just the prep work to paint would be roughly equivalent in time/cost as buffing it out. (Assuming it’s saveable).

[IB853347201]

dodge guy wrote:
If you really like it. Have it painted. Use a good sealer on the fiberglass and then whatever color for the paint. Wax will only last for a short time then it will go back to being chalky.

This is the best long lasting solution

[campingwiththor]

Wow! That’s is interesting. Will definitely look into that. Thank u

JimK-NY wrote:
Get a scotch kitchen pad and some bar keepers friend or bon ami. Scrub off the old oxidation. If the surface is still white, you are in luck. Prepare the entire surface, then apply several light coats of Zep acrylic floor finish. You should end up with a decent shiny finish that will last for years with minimal upkeep.

[Grit_dog]

bgum wrote:
Go to a saltwater boat repair shop and find out what they use. You can't find any better.

Any autobody or marine compound and polish will work about equally. It’s all basically the same thing. The same 2 quarts of 3M compound and polish have done paint (urethane or acrylic enamels, lacquers), gel coat, filon.
Unless it’s completely burned up and doesn’t have any competent gel under the oxidized stuff I couldn’t imagine going through the cost of painting it, when a cut and polish will bring it back to original condition.
Yes, a new quality urethane enamel clear coat over base coat will likely last longer than the gel if not maintained again. But 5 grand minimum for a quality spray job vs a couple three hundred even if you have to buy the polisher pads and material…idk.
Even if you can’t do it yourself you could likely get it fully cut and polished for well under $1000.

[JimK-NY]

Get a scotch kitchen pad and some bar keepers friend or bon ami. Scrub off the old oxidation. If the surface is still white, you are in luck. Prepare the entire surface, then apply several light coats of Zep acrylic floor finish. You should end up with a decent shiny finish that will last for years with minimal upkeep.

[bgum]

Go to a saltwater boat repair shop and find out what they use. You can't find any better.