Reviewing results from CAT scale weigh in

[Gator81Burb]

Hello - and thanks up front for the help. I know this is long post with lots of questions. 🙂

I just weighed TV and TT at CAT scales. I would like to share the numbers, get your take, and I have three questions.

Background:
- TV is 2003 2500 suburban with 8.1 L, autoride suspension, 3.73 rear end, and LT245/75R16 tires.
- TT is 30 foot with 9500 GVWR
- WDH is blue ox. I set hitch almost as "strong" meaning there us only 2-3 more links available.
- During weighing TT had empty tanks and usual stuff when we camp. TV had 1/2 tank of gas and usual stuff we take camping.

Weight measurements - TV only
Front axle 3640lbs
Rear axle 3540 lbs
Total 7180

TT and TV -
Front axle 3440 lbs
Rear axle 5280 lbs
TT axles 7500 lbs
Total 16220 lbs

Question 1 - internet shows curb weight of TV= 5796 lbs. Is that right? How can I be 1384 lbs over curb weight with 2 ppl and 1/2 a tank of gas?

Question 2 - what is the GCWR for my TV? I can't find that anywhere. I know towing capacity of TV is 10,400 lbs.

Question 3 - total weight on both TV axles with TT attached is 8720 lbs. GVWR of TV is 8600 lbs. Am I unsafe? My GAWR front is 4180 lbs and 5500 on rear axle. So I am not maxing out axle rating.

Question 4 - with TT attached front axle is 200 lbs lighter than without TT. I don't have many more links available on WDH. Do I need a different hitch?

Thanks so much and again I am sorry for the long post!!

[mkirsch]

BenK wrote:
OP's 8.1L Sub is a GMT800, not the GMT900 with the welded in receiver that also serves crumple zone duties

But...the OP has that, IMHO, dumb receiver design and suggest, if it hasn't been already, replace it with a traditional receiver

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27745475

You are correct. GMT800

[BenK]

OP's 8.1L Sub is a GMT800, not the GMT900 with the welded in receiver that also serves crumple zone duties

But...the OP has that, IMHO, dumb receiver design and suggest, if it hasn't been already, replace it with a traditional receiver

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/27745475

[mkirsch]

Gator81Burb wrote:
- Am I exceeding the hitch receiver capacity? TV still has OEM receiver. It is very difficult for me to find class rating of receiver GM puts on 3/4 ton suburbans. Does anyone know?

Should be a sticker right on the receiver with the capacities.

The factory receiver on my 2002 3500 DRW had a 750/7500 weight carrying capacity, and a 1250/12500 weight distributing capacity. At BEST that is what yours is rated for, and you are most certainly exceeding the receiver capacity.

Also look into GMT800 (corrected) OEM receiver failures.

BTW, "Class" is meaningless. There is officially only Class I - IV, and it doesn't cover anything over 1000/10000 weight distributing capacity. That "V-5" sticker does NOT mean "Class V." There is no such thing as Class 5 or Class V.

[Jarlaxle]

Gator81Burb wrote:
Based on everyone's input I agree I have two concerns:

- Do I need a WDH with higher rating? I would feel safer getting 2000 lb WDH.

- Am I exceeding the hitch receiver capacity? TV still has OEM receiver. It is very difficult for me to find class rating of receiver GM puts on 3/4 ton suburbans. Does anyone know?

Thanks again. I promise this will be last question. 🙂

The hitch should have the rating on it-and if it's OEM, it might be in the owner's manual.

[APT]

Curt XD

I'd get that and keep your current WDH.

[Gator81Burb]

Based on everyone's input I agree I have two concerns:

- Do I need a WDH with higher rating? I would feel safer getting 2000 lb WDH.

- Am I exceeding the hitch receiver capacity? TV still has OEM receiver. It is very difficult for me to find class rating of receiver GM puts on 3/4 ton suburbans. Does anyone know?

Thanks again. I promise this will be last question. 🙂

[JRscooby]

Gator81Burb wrote:


That brings up next good question. How do I calculate tongue weight to make sure I have properly sized hitch?

I have read I take 2 weight readings: weight of truck with no trailer (7180 lbs), weight of truck with WDH disconnected (8890 lbs). So I believe I have 1710 lb tongue weight. Did I calculate that right.

That being said it sounds like it would be a good idea for me to get a beefier hitch. Do they make 2000 lbs hitches? Suggestions??

Also - more numbers for you. I measured front and rear wheel well heights with no trailer and with trailer attached with WDH setup. No trailer has front 36.5 in and rear 38.25. Trailer with WDH has front at 36.5 and rear at 36.5. That good? I think so because I have front within 0.25 inches of unloaded height.

What is important, the weight on a stand under the coupler while the trailer is parked, or the weight on coupler when all hooked up and ready to roll?
Add the weight of steer and drive axles when hooked up, then subtract the GW of trailer. This will give you TW when all hooked up. Subtract the GW of truck alone from GW of combination will give you GW of trailer. Use those numbers to figure the percentages.

By the OP, you are a little over your GVWR. This might shorten the life of some suspension parts. If you where towing this daily you might notice it, but for normal RV use you likely will not notice it. If I had a way to prove it I would bet most RVs are over at least 1 rating. But you are in better shape than most, if only because you know. You can make some adjustments between your ears to reduce the harm.

[APT]

4WD 8.1L 2000-2006 Suburbans weigh about 6500 pounds with a full tank of fuel. Maybe a 2WD 6.0L LS model could be 5700. The Tire and loading sticker was required on all 2006 models in US, and I remember some being in that 2100 pound range.

GCWR is about 17k for 3.73 axle (10,500 tow rating) and 18.5k for 4.10 axle (12k tow rating).

200 pounds over for that rig is fine. My half ton with the same trailer I still have was 0-500 pounds over GVWR depending on how much we packed per trip.

I'd try one more link hanging (1 fewer under tension) if you can. Check your WDH manual for the minimum @# of links. Also, if your hitch head tilted all the way back?

[lbrjet]

Exceeding the receiver rating concerns me way more than 200 lbs light on the front axle. You restored 440 out of 640 which is not bad. I think blue ox has 2K bars. Your 1710 TW Calc is correct.

[mkirsch]

Just like your truck's curb weight, trailer "spec" weights are of the lightest possible configuration under ideal conditions. No water, no propane (or tanks), no batteries, nothing in the cabinets, no optional equipment on the trailer.

When you put all the heavy stuff up front and have nothing but empty space behind the axles the trailer is going to have a high tongue weight.

Anything is possible with moving the tanks. It's just going to cost money, but you don't want to move them behind the axle as that may adversely affect the stability of the trailer.

[Gator81Burb]

Thanks again for all the help.

These are the weights:
Truck only:
Front axle-3640
Rear axle-3540

Truck/trailer - WDH unhooked
Front axle-3000
Rear axle-5890
Trailer axles-8890

** weight added to truck = 8890-7180 = 1710 = tongue weight???

That is A LOT!! Trailer spec'd with GVWR 9400 and tongue weight of 940.

Tongue is 1 inch higher than
what makes trailer level. Trailer axles are 1300 lbs UNDER max rating.

I don't have a lot loaded in trailer ahead of trailer axles. But with where fresh water inlet and drains are located I think all tanks are ahead of axles.

When trailer spec's tongue weight as 940lbs, is it possible that is with empty tanks?

This is a rear living space floorplan so there isn't much that is behind axle just based on floor plan. Are RLDS floorplans prone to excessive tongue weight?

If so, is it possible to move tanks behind axle to make use of the 1300 unused loading available at axles?

FYI

Truck/trailer - WDH hooked
Front axle-3460
Rear axle-5140
Trailer axles-7540
*** now due to WDH weight added to truck is down to 1420.

[Jarlaxle]

Make absolutely sure to run your rear tires at maximum pressure (should be 80psi). They should carry it with no trouble, but you'll want that pressure.

[Boomerweps]

Easiest way to figure your factory TV curb weight is to subtract your payload capacity from your GVWR as marked on your vehicles door frame stickers.

[BenK]

Unless your year's door sticker had 'as shipped' weight, the curb of old was the stripper model without power windows/etc, no carpeting, cardboard door panels, ZERO options like ac, automatic, etc

Here is the smog sheet for my 1996 K3500 Suburban and it lists 'curb' as 5250lbs and it weight around 7200lbs at the local garden scale with me/toolbox/misc cargo

Click For Full-Size Image.

Best to go back to the scales and weigh it as is.

Ditto for the tongue, go to the scales and weigh it. There is a way to figure it out from weighing all of the axles plus NOT having the WD tensioned.

That will then tell you what WD bar rating you should have. Think Blue Ox Sway Pro bars come in 1,400 lb rating