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Box or V-clip Spring Hangers?

skeeter_ca
Explorer
Explorer
I had my two rear spring hanger break off my 20 yr old+ 5th wheel. The springs are sitting on frame now. I plan on replacing all the hangers while I have the axles removed. Shouldn't be that hard. The hardest part will be removing the old hangers but I am up to it. So I have heard of people welding in a plate on the end of the hanger to keep them from flexing as much. Seems like a good idea. In researching it also found out people are adding a piece of metal shaped like a V to the inside of the hanger and welding it to the hanger and the frame. Does anyone have any opinions on whether either of these methods are a good idea or not.

skeeter
1 REPLY 1

myredracer
Explorer II
Explorer II
Spring hangers can flex left/right a lot, and how much depends on things like a trailer's weight and the thickness and height of the spring hangers. The 1st photo is a previous TT we had just after we bought it (new). The hangers were all bent to one side by about 5/8" and after only about 2K miles to the dealer. The amount of flex would have eventually result in frame damage. The manufacturer took the TT back. I temporarily lashed a camcorder under the frame and went for a drive. I could not believe how much the hangers flopped left/right in turns.



Gussets can be added like in this photo.



You can also install cross-bracing between the spring hangers like in these photos. These were owner-built but Mor/Ryde sells them.



"Boxing" in the spring hangers will also help. A length of 2x2" tubing can be added to the underside of the I-beams as can be seen in the 3rd photo. You could reduce the height of the spring hangers if you add this tubing. If you don't have them, install Dexter equalizers and wet bolt kit. The OEM plastic spring bushings don't last very long and can fail in as little as a couple thousand miles. Higher rated axles should also help.