No DC Power with new converter

[EMD360]

I am confused about getting dc power back to the distribution panel. I asked the question here and I probably misunderstood the answer. I thought there was existing wiring from the batteries back to the panel. Apparently not. Neither the progressive dynamics or the Renogy dc to dc converter are powering the distribution panel although they are both charging the batteries.

What am I missing?

[wa8yxm]

Re Replacing the switch v/s first level cleaning.
While it is true the switch is not expensive it's hard to find
And the method I used cost $0.00 can you beat that price?

The switches are self cleaning to a point. but if they sit on the shelf long enough they can tarnish to the point here with power self cleaning won't work.. Remove power cycle them 50-100 times they self clean and work.. as I said, for over 15 years it worked perfectly after cleaning. and at a cost of $0.00

[EMD360]

Thanks that was a good hint. Terrible about your former rig though. I would have replaced the switch they are not very expensive. But tracking the problem is kind of a pain. Luckily mine was in the first place I looked. Bad ground. I did tell the story in DIY. Glad it’s all working now.

[wa8yxm]

EMD360 wrote:
Thanks. Do you mean the disconnect switch? I wired the new converter directly to the batteries.

Yes that is exactly what I mean, the disconnect switch and possibly the disconnect relay.

When My rig was fairly new the @#$#@ switch was dirty.. I was able to clean it but as a result the "STORE" (Disconnect/off) side got a good solid CLUNK from the latching solenoid but the USE (Connect/ON) side got no response.

I removed the switch (Shold have just removed power from it) Cycled it both ways like 50-100 times, put it back and 15 years later it was still working when the rig got totaled by an aggressive semi driver who did not like where I was parked.

[EMD360]

Yes thanks. I also had a loose ground on the frame. Must have forgotten to tighten it. So all is working now. Thinking of posting my full story.

[BFL13]

Thanks for the update on finding the problem. Good job.

On the monitor, it will have a shunt that only has the one fat wire to the battery neg post from one end, and all the negs now go on the other end of the shunt. Might need a buss if too many negs to stack on the shunt.

Easy to forget the battery to frame "ground". It comes off the battery neg post, stays on the frame, and now goes on the shunt with the other negs.

[EMD360]

Well thanks. All made sense to check but I found it. Power was not going through the positive buss bar. I guess it was broken. But I just turned it into a single post bus bar and now the dc panel works. I’m still trying to figure out the Victron battery monitor.

[BFL13]

EMD360 wrote:
Thanks. Do you mean the disconnect switch? I wired the new converter directly to the batteries.

First, make sure the red wire through the disconnect switch in that photo is connected to the battery pos post. Also make sure the black wire through that DC breaker is also on the pos battery post (or that they go to a buss which is on the pos post.

That is independent from the wire from the charger to the battery that also goes on the pos post. I can't remember if you put in new batteries and maybe didn't hook up all the wires like it was OEM.

Besides an "open" in the pos path, part of the neg path might be through the frame. Maybe the wire from the battery neg post that goes to the frame is open either at the battery or from a rusty frame connection.

[EMD360]

Thanks. Do you mean the disconnect switch? I wired the new converter directly to the batteries.

[wa8yxm]

I am going to draw two line drawings Pick the one that fits best

Converter---batteries---Switch---Panel---Devices

Batteries----Switch---- Panel and converter ---- Devices.

MOST RV's use the 2nd line but if you put in a converter you may have gone to the fist line (If you connected direct to the batteries) in that case the disconnect switch... will shut you down.

In the 2nd case. (normal) you need to start tracing wires something is broken, not connected or mis-connected.

[time2roll]

Does the converter have 13.6 volts coming off the terminals?

Then you just need to close the loop. Keep poking until you find where voltage stops along the path to the battery or to the main panel. Fix, tighten, adjust, clean, replace or repair that spot where the voltage stops.

[BFL13]

EMD360 wrote:
Yes below the fuse is a 50 amp breaker. I don’t think it’s resettable. Thanks for the tip. The red wires are on the battery disconnect switch. That turns off the DC power except for the propane sensor.

That is another possible "open" preventing battery power reaching the panel

[EMD360]

Yes below the fuse is a 50 amp breaker. I don’t think it’s resettable. Thanks for the tip. The red wires are on the battery disconnect switch. That turns off the DC power except for the propane sensor.

[BFL13]

No, the battery fuse or CB will be in the 40-60 amp range to match the ampacity of the wire and the charging amps of the OEM converter at 45-55a say.

It would be quite close to the battery, on the tongue of a TT just under the battery box, eg.

EDIT--the CB bottom right with the two black wires is a possible, but not sure what the bigger thing on the left is with the red wires. The isolator above appears to be for alternator charging of the house batts, controlled by the ignition being on or off. I am not familiar with that set-up, but a friend has one in a Sunseeker Class C. Our 1991 C does not have that set-up.

Somebody else who has one of these arrangements could help with this question better than I.

[EMD360]

BFL13 “Usual "open" is the battery fuse (or DC CB) on the pos wire near the battery”
Are you referring to this 5 amp fuse?

Tomorrow I plan to run wires from the batteries to the old converter connections on the dc board.