Oops! Water Heater Issues

[craig_evans]

For some unknown reason, I flipped on the switch for my winterized water heater while I was preparing our Roadtrek for our trip south and walked out of the van.
When I came back, I noticed the switch in the on position with no indicator light showing. I immediately turned it off, and seeing the light was labelled 'reset', I tried to push it, slide it, whatever, to remedy- with no results. I next checked the fuses, which seemed fine.
Next I referred to the manual.
The first safety warning notes it is IMPERATIVE that the water heater be filled or may result in damage.

Does anyone know what I may be looking at for repairs? Mine is a Suburban SW6D series
Thanks in advance

[craig_evans]

Thanks for the ideas! By crazy luck, I was able to reset from the back of the unit, red light now operates with the controls in the van. Maybe I'll get away without damage this time. I won't be pressure testing it until we get way south of this polar vortex in Ontario.
A special call-out to Doug and Old-biscuit - you guys nailed it!

[Old-Biscuit]

dougrainer wrote:
1. The Red light ONLY comes ON when it fails to light on LP
2. Most Suburban and Atwood, if lit on LP and tank is empty, the ECO and/or the Tstat WILL trip from the Tank getting extremely hot.
3. So, if the RED light was on, the heater failed to fire or it did fire but locked out for some reason.
4. The REASON is probably the ECO tripped which on a Suburban is a manual reset. Just access the rubber cover below the Pop off valve and use a pencil to push in to reset it. Doug

ANd even though tank was empty probably NO Damage cause due to High Temp T-stat Tripping/shutting down heating AND tank had opportunity to cool down naturally

Damage usually is done when HOT-HOT tank is filled with COLD Water

Naturally cooled HOT tank........basically a ' "oh, gee, sorry about that" kind of error to make.



Now that is has cooled down and you understand what/how it happened..........fill water heater with water, check it for leaks, fire it up and recheck for leaks
(Have to 'reset' that tripped Hit Temp T-stat-----RIGHT Side Button on 'Push to Reset Cover' )

[Lwiddis]

Making sure the WH has water is an obsession with me....safety.

[dougrainer]

1. The Red light ONLY comes ON when it fails to light on LP
2. Most Suburban and Atwood, if lit on LP and tank is empty, the ECO and/or the Tstat WILL trip from the Tank getting extremely hot.
3. So, if the RED light was on, the heater failed to fire or it did fire but locked out for some reason.
4. The REASON is probably the ECO tripped which on a Suburban is a manual reset. Just access the rubber cover below the Pop off valve and use a pencil to push in to reset it. Doug

[ksg5000]

Won't help this time .. but when I winterize my rig I disconnect the wires to the water heater propane burner .. has come in handy on a few occasions when nephew/nieces start pushing buttons when exploring the RV.

[MFL]

After burner full heat cycle, on for several hours, no water, it is likely the WH liner will have cracked. I can look inside mine with a bright LED piston light for inspection. If there was some water in bottom, not all will drain, unless sucked out by vacuum, and add some Divine intervention, you may still be okay. However, a new WH may be in your future, as a cracked liner could not be repaired.

Jerry

[craig_evans]

MFL wrote:
Should be no element on the D only model, and if the propane was turned off, no start up of propane flame to heat WH, then no damage. If WH did light on propane, no water, than damage could occur, depending how quickly it was shut off.

Jerry

Unfortunately, the propane was on and the switch on for several hours...

[SoundGuy]

craig.evans wrote:
Thanks all for your responses. I suppose my departure date will be delayed until this is resolved ;(

First step is to establish exactly what water heater you have as that will in turn direct you to the most likely cause of the failure and therefore the correct solution.

[SoundGuy]

JaxDad wrote:
When there’s no liquid in the heater the element quickly overheats and burns out. I’d be surprised if anything else would happen, the element overheats VERY quickly.

SoundGuy wrote:
The OP said he has an SW6D, in which case it has no electric heating element, otherwise it would be an SW6DE. If it is in fact the latter then yes, he's destroyed the electric heating element which would therefore need to be replaced.

naturist wrote:
And if, indeed, the propane burner came on, it could very easily melt the bottom out of the aluminum tank.

An SW series water heater is a Suburban which doesn't have an aluminum tank but rather a porcelain lined steel tank.

[MFL]

"And if, indeed, the propane burner came on, it could very easily melt the bottom out of the aluminum tank."

The Suburban has a glass lined Steel tank, not aluminum. In any case, damage can occur. If burner lit off, run 5 minutes or less, shut off, should be okay. Amount of time till damage just a guess, but if on 15 minutes, damage more likely.

Jerry

[craig_evans]

Thanks all for your responses. I suppose my departure date will be delayed until this is resolved ;(

[MFL]

Should be no element on the D only model, and if the propane was turned off, no start up of propane flame to heat WH, then no damage. If WH did light on propane, no water, than damage could occur, depending how quickly it was shut off.

Jerry

[naturist]

JaxDad wrote:
When there’s no liquid in the heater the element quickly overheats and burns out. I’d be surprised if anything else would happen, the element overheats VERY quickly.

SoundGuy wrote:
The OP said he has an SW6D, in which case it has no electric heating element, otherwise it would be an SW6DE. If it is in fact the latter then yes, he's destroyed the electric heating element which would therefore need to be replaced.

And if, indeed, the propane burner came on, it could very easily melt the bottom out of the aluminum tank.

It is indeed imperative that the water heater be full of water when you turn it on. This is not an "oh, gee, sorry about that" kind of error to make.

[SoundGuy]

JaxDad wrote:
When there’s no liquid in the heater the element quickly overheats and burns out. I’d be surprised if anything else would happen, the element overheats VERY quickly.

The OP said he has an SW6D, in which case it has no electric heating element, otherwise it would be an SW6DE. If it is in fact the latter then yes, he's destroyed the electric heating element which would therefore need to be replaced.