Refrigerator temp

[Skipg]

We have a Domeftic refrigerator with a thermistor to regulate temp. The thermistor is in the highest position on the cooling fin ,but I can only maintain 40-44 degrees. Outside temp is 90 degrees and rv is under cover. Is this temp normal? Anything I can do to get temp lower? Also have two small air circulation fans in the refrigerator.thanks for any feed back.

[dougrainer]

ernie1 wrote:
Dougrainer: As I had stated in a previous response, mine and my two friends bought the same units brand new and had the very same problem from the very first time these refrigerators were put into use BRAND NEW! Attempts to correct the problem through Dometic were futile and costly especially after their response was that their units were performing as designed, as in you're good until 95deg F and that's it you're on your own after that. So, the issue was not that the fridges were old, used and abused, not on level nor looked at by professionals. I have hot wired my fridge on 120vac via my inverter and on shore power and am able to get it down to maybe 35deg F at about 50deg ambient. Doesn't mean much to me because it still climbs above 45-50+ degrees when it's above 95-100 degrees F ambient. No matter how you slice it, the potentially hazardous food will start to spoil under these conditions. The longer the time at such high temps the more bacterial growth you get and the chance that you'll sicker is increased.In the recent past I've replaced the propane gas regulator with a new Marshall unit and used my manometer to adjust the pressure to 11.5 "wc, installed two fans in the rear condenser area, two fans in the freezer and two fans in the refrigerator section. Nothing has helped except that the fins in the refrigerator section don't now freeze up but temps are still too high.

I stand by what I posted. Also, ICE on Evap fins will produce HIGHER temps. Ice is an Insulator and will degrade lower compartment cooling, so IF you had Ice on the fins, that is just 1 of your problems. Ice by definition is 32 degrees. The temps in a refer will be 10 degrees warmer than the fins. So Ice means 42 degrees in refer. 35 degree refer temp means the the fins are at 25 degrees. Doug

PS. fans inside ANY 2 door refer freezer will NOT do anything. Fans promote air over the evap fins.

[doxiemom11]

Did you check the door seals on these new Dometic refrigerators - the dollar bill test. Just defective or poorly installed door seals or door alignment can affect the temperature more than you would think.

[Gjac]

I have a Norcold 682IM that is 25 years old that works well until outside temps hit 90 plus and I see 40 to 45 degrees inside just like you are seeing. It will recover and go below 35 at night and cycle will start again. Temps are worst when ever we camp with family because the door is constantly being opened. So minimal door opening helps. Also I either pull in or back into a camp site so the sun is not hitting the refer. Another thing to consider if you are just measuring the air temp in side the refer and you see 40F the food will be colder. I put a glass of water inside and a thermometer inside the water and readings were much colder than the air temp readings and did not very as much with the opening of the door. If air temp was 40 water temp was 35.

[ernie1]

Dougrainer: As I had stated in a previous response, mine and my two friends bought the same units brand new and had the very same problem from the very first time these refrigerators were put into use BRAND NEW! Attempts to correct the problem through Dometic were futile and costly especially after their response was that their units were performing as designed, as in you're good until 95deg F and that's it you're on your own after that. So, the issue was not that the fridges were old, used and abused, not on level nor looked at by professionals. I have hot wired my fridge on 120vac via my inverter and on shore power and am able to get it down to maybe 35deg F at about 50deg ambient. Doesn't mean much to me because it still climbs above 45-50+ degrees when it's above 95-100 degrees F ambient. No matter how you slice it, the potentially hazardous food will start to spoil under these conditions. The longer the time at such high temps the more bacterial growth you get and the chance that you'll sicker is increased.In the recent past I've replaced the propane gas regulator with a new Marshall unit and used my manometer to adjust the pressure to 11.5 "wc, installed two fans in the rear condenser area, two fans in the freezer and two fans in the refrigerator section. Nothing has helped except that the fins in the refrigerator section don't now freeze up but temps are still too high.

[happy2rv]

Lots of factors affect cooling.

• Is the RV in direct sunlight?
  
• Is there any way to shade at least the side the fridge is on?
  
• How old is the RV/Fridge?
  
• How much has it been operated off level?
  
• Running off level doesn't necessarily result in immediate catastrophic failure, but the more it happens, the more damage that's done.
  
• Are the outside vents top and bottom clear and free of any debris?
• As others have suggested, fans in the outside compartment may help.
  
• Fans inside the refrigerator can help with even distribution.
  

It's not at all uncommon to have trouble keeping it below 40 with gas absorption refrigerators. Shouldn't be a problem, but more often than not it is, especially in the heat of the day. Many people resort to putting a jug or jugs of water in the freezer at night and moving them to the refrigerator during the day. Again, shouldn't be necessary, but may help. I have to say, I don't miss RV style fridge. When we got our current TT with residential refrigerator, I was worried about batteries lasting during travel, but that hasn't been an issue so far.

[dougrainer]

ernie1 wrote:
Old Biscuit: I agree with your statement concerning proper installation is necessary by rv manufacturers to achieve proper cooling. However, I have checked very carefully the installation requirements and clearances according to my owner's installation instruction and have found them to be spot on. I think I recall that Dometic's specs are set at a maximum of 95degrees F ambient which is the temperature at which my refrigerator can not keep up and the internal temps start rising into and above 40 degrees F. By the way, 37 degrees F is not a bad internal temperature for a refrigerator but not at all optimal because something of a lower temperature without freezing the food will give you more lee way in case ambient temps rise. Higher temps allow the bacteria to multiply faster. I think 35 degrees F is better because it won't freeze the food, gives more leeway in case of a rise in ambient and accounts for inaccuracy of thermometers. For what it's worth, my Dometic and those of my two friends who bought their rvs new, have better results with their refridges running on 120ac than they do on propane gas which is odd. This is after careful inspection and some repair by rv shops with careful guidance from Dometic. The results are 40+ degrees F in the 90+ degrees ambient. Totally unacceptable!

I have NEVER had any problems with the 8555 cooling below 40 degrees. Texas Heat from 90 to 105. Lots of my customers have this unit in their B+ motorhomes. If I had a problem, Either a control or Cooling unit was the problem. 120 line voltage and LP pressure is critical for correct cooling. IF you find 120 is "better" than LP, then you have a LP pressure or baffle problem. Also, what is the age of the refer? Has it been run off level enough to degrade performance in hot weather. THIS is the most common cause of periodically running a refer Off level. You think nothing has happened, because it performs, but the TEST is when it gets hot ambient and THEN the refer does NOT perform below 40 degrees. You then blame the lousy refer when it was your fault that it is not performing. If you hot wire the 120 element for 24 hours and it does NOT get below 35 degrees, your CU is toast. Doug

[ernie1]

Old Biscuit: I agree with your statement concerning proper installation is necessary by rv manufacturers to achieve proper cooling. However, I have checked very carefully the installation requirements and clearances according to my owner's installation instruction and have found them to be spot on. I think I recall that Dometic's specs are set at a maximum of 95degrees F ambient which is the temperature at which my refrigerator can not keep up and the internal temps start rising into and above 40 degrees F. By the way, 37 degrees F is not a bad internal temperature for a refrigerator but not at all optimal because something of a lower temperature without freezing the food will give you more lee way in case ambient temps rise. Higher temps allow the bacteria to multiply faster. I think 35 degrees F is better because it won't freeze the food, gives more leeway in case of a rise in ambient and accounts for inaccuracy of thermometers. For what it's worth, my Dometic and those of my two friends who bought their rvs new, have better results with their refridges running on 120ac than they do on propane gas which is odd. This is after careful inspection and some repair by rv shops with careful guidance from Dometic. The results are 40+ degrees F in the 90+ degrees ambient. Totally unacceptable!

[Old-Biscuit]

ernie1 wrote:
40 degrees Fahrenheit is the absolute maximum temperature that potentially hazardous foods can be kept at. Anything above that and you are asking for trouble. Additionally, the longer time that the food is kept at that temperature, the more hazardous the food becomes. 35degrees F. or so is more ideal.
skipg: My Dometic RML8555, brand new has never done any better than yours and its sad that we consumers are saddled with these lousy appliances. As a side note: my two friends who bought new rvs that have the same fridge as I do, had the same problem also and Dometic's response is that that's the way they are. One friend spent $$$$ and switched to a 12volt compressor fridge and the other spent $$$ trying to repair something that couldn't be fixed. Myself, I've given up.

RV MFG are to blame for NOT properly installing Absorption fridges as per Norcold & Dometic Installation guides
Proper clearances, insulation, airflow/draft requirements etc

Those issues are with the RV MFG


YES....
The safe refrigerator temperature range in the main compartment is 40 degrees Fahrenheit or below, with 37 degrees Fahrenheit being considered the optimal for holding foods cold.

Those temps ARE achievable with absorption fridges ,,,when correctly installed
Airflow/Draft and clearances are critical

[ernie1]

40 degrees Fahrenheit is the absolute maximum temperature that potentially hazardous foods can be kept at. Anything above that and you are asking for trouble. Additionally, the longer time that the food is kept at that temperature, the more hazardous the food becomes. 35degrees F. or so is more ideal.
skipg: My Dometic RML8555, brand new has never done any better than yours and its sad that we consumers are saddled with these lousy appliances. As a side note: my two friends who bought new rvs that have the same fridge as I do, had the same problem also and Dometic's response is that that's the way they are. One friend spent $$$$ and switched to a 12volt compressor fridge and the other spent $$$ trying to repair something that couldn't be fixed. Myself, I've given up.

[dougrainer]

Model helps but a simple response----Do you have a Tstat adjustment on the eyebrow ON/OFF panel? It will be 1-5. If NOT, you have an Auto temp refer model. Doug

[Cummins12V98]

I am betting it's located in a slide?

[Lwiddis]

40 to 44 degrees in the fresh food compartment with outside temps in the 90s sounds pretty good to me.

[jkwilson]

Check the ventilating fan behind the refrigerator. Add more fans as needed.

Check the insulation at the top and sides of the refrigerator. Add insulation as needed and tape to keep outdoor air away from the refrigerator cabinet.

[johnhicks]

In central Florida I'm seeing about 35F in the wee hours of the night and 45F in the afternoon. It's been working that way in summer for the past eight years.