Coax cable

[wbwood]

What's the best outdoor cable to use. Apparently the last couple of cables I have bought were not that great as the ends ended up breaking after several uses. I don't think the quality of the wire was that great either. Is there a premium gauge or something I should be looking for?

[joebedford]

westend wrote:
Coax has a steel center conductor.

Not the cable I buy. 100% copper.

[wa8yxm]

rhagfo wrote:

Why bother with with RG59 when the cost difference between RG59 and RG6 is so small.

Saved me the typing. "So small" often $0.00 for short (less than 100') runs.

[SaltiDawg]

mike-s,

Thanks for reply. I mis-read the descriptions and asked a dumb question.

[mike-s]

rhagfo wrote:
There is a difference between the needs of a batwing and a Sat Dish.

...and the OP didn't say what he has, or even what the coax was for. I presented a perfectly workable option, and gave facts to back it up. You asked why someone would use RG-59 instead of RG-6. I answered twice, but you seem to have reading comprehension issues. And, since there are many more batwings out there than sat dishes, well...

SaltiDawg wrote:
Wonder why copper coated would be cheaper? Both RG-6?

Both are RG-6 type. Full copper center conductors tend to be in higher spec cable - in this comparison, the more expensive cable also has a 95% tinned copper shield (plus foil), while the cheaper stuff is 40% aluminum plus foil.

Steel and aluminum are much cheaper than copper.

[westend]

rhagfo wrote:

westend wrote:
Coax has a steel center conductor. Bend it enough and it will break. My cable installer buddy set me up with the tools and enough connectors to last two lifetimes.

The center conductor is copper, the sheild braid is likely aluminum and the foil is likely a mylar type material.
It will take a lot of drect bending to break the center conductor, the braid will likely never break.

I guess it's available in both flavors but the boxes of RG 6 I have, is all copper coated steel center conductor.

I have noticed that if I get real aggressive with the stripper and put a complete score on it, I can break that center conductor easily. Don't know if that is the OP's issue but thought I'd mention it.

[SaltiDawg]

mike-s wrote:
A lot of the coax used for CATV has a copper plated steel center conductor. At the frequencies involved, the skin effect causes most of the signal to flow through the copper.

Belden 1694A = copper, about $0.72/ft
Belden 1189A = copper coated steel, about $0.19/ft

Wonder why copper coated would be cheaper? Both RG-6?

[mike-s]

A lot of the coax used for CATV has a copper plated steel center conductor. At the frequencies involved, the skin effect causes most of the signal to flow through the copper.

Belden 1694A = copper, about $0.72/ft
Belden 1189A = copper coated steel, about $0.19/ft

[rhagfo]

westend wrote:
Coax has a steel center conductor. Bend it enough and it will break. My cable installer buddy set me up with the tools and enough connectors to last two lifetimes.

The center conductor is copper, the sheild braid is likely aluminum and the foil is likely a mylar type material.
It will take a lot of drect bending to break the center conductor, the braid will likely never break.

[rhagfo]

mike-s wrote:

rhagfo wrote:
Why bother with with RG59 when the cost difference between RG59 and RG6 is so small.

For the exact same reason already given and which you ignored. It's thinner and more flexible, which makes it easier to deal with in some circumstances. That includes the lead-in from a common batwing antenna.

There is a difference between the needs of a batwing and a Sat Dish. That and as stated it isn't that dificult to route. I just ran. Length from my rear bumper into the vanity cabinet in the bedroom, not that hard to pull. The end at the rear bumper terminates in a 3X5 outdoor box with and I use cover for our Cell repeater.

[uncle_t]

every sat tech i have encountered advised not to use push on connectors.

[westend]

Coax has a steel center conductor. Bend it enough and it will break. My cable installer buddy set me up with the tools and enough connectors to last two lifetimes.

[mike-s]

rhagfo wrote:
Why bother with with RG59 when the cost difference between RG59 and RG6 is so small.

For the exact same reason already given and which you ignored. It's thinner and more flexible, which makes it easier to deal with in some circumstances. That includes the lead-in from a common batwing antenna.

[joebedford]

Yup. I bought the tool to install compression fitting and have been very happy after much frustration with push on / twist on connectors.

I suppose there are different grades of RG6 cable but I can't imagine ANY RG6 failing after a use or two unless you're driving over it.

[rhagfo]

mike-s wrote:
RG-59 is fine, and assuming your outdoor antenna moves (raise/lower, rotate), its flexibility can be an advantage over RG-6. The difference at 900 MHz (high end of UHF TV) is 4.3 dB per 100 feet. So the difference for the short distance from the antenna to the jack in a typical RV is mice nuts. Same for the couple of feet from the wall plate to the TV.

Sure, you might see a difference with 50+ foot runs in a home, but for an average size RV, the smaller size and greater flexibility of RG-59 may give it an advantage, with little disadvantage.

For outdoor use, if you want to be sure it will last, try to find something made with name brand cable - Belden, Alpha, or Times Microwave.

Why bother with with RG59 when the cost difference between RG59 and RG6 is so small. Personally I tossed all of my RG59 cable years ago. I would hate to see the picture quality on my TV with our Dish TailGator pulling a HD channel! Keep in mind that cable also needs to provide power and signal to auto aiming dishes.
I also have never had an issue with compression coax cable and RG6 cable.