May-15-2022 03:28 PM
May-17-2022 03:47 PM
May-17-2022 07:43 AM
May-16-2022 09:49 PM
May-16-2022 07:14 PM
May-16-2022 07:10 PM
BigSwick wrote:Grit dog wrote:
What he said^.
You need to let your springs take enough weight that it engages the lower main leaf.
That means it needs to sag a couple inches at least.
Of course if the truck is leveled that will make it ride nose up.
What actual lift do you have and tire size?
Does it still have some rake? IE most lifts are less in back to level the truck when not loaded.
Springs are obviously not a 2 beer job like airbags, but if this is going to be a long term setup I’d get the heaviest springs i could put under it, reasonably.
There are many ways to skin this cat and each have some advantages and disadvantages.
With stout springs, you may reasonably get by with those only (2500lb springs like you posted seem a bit light. Unless you’ve actually weighed the camper, it could be heavier than you think).
Springs and Timbrens shimmed up pretty tight might be a good way to go too.
If you have the option of doing one step at a time and then test driving it, it could save you some additional time/expense of trial and error.
I disagree. This is a short term setup. Let one idiot stop short in front of him, and when he swerves to miss them, game over...
Bite the bullet, trade the truck for one capable of the load.
May-16-2022 03:06 PM
Grit dog wrote:
What he said^.
You need to let your springs take enough weight that it engages the lower main leaf.
That means it needs to sag a couple inches at least.
Of course if the truck is leveled that will make it ride nose up.
What actual lift do you have and tire size?
Does it still have some rake? IE most lifts are less in back to level the truck when not loaded.
Springs are obviously not a 2 beer job like airbags, but if this is going to be a long term setup I’d get the heaviest springs i could put under it, reasonably.
There are many ways to skin this cat and each have some advantages and disadvantages.
With stout springs, you may reasonably get by with those only (2500lb springs like you posted seem a bit light. Unless you’ve actually weighed the camper, it could be heavier than you think).
Springs and Timbrens shimmed up pretty tight might be a good way to go too.
If you have the option of doing one step at a time and then test driving it, it could save you some additional time/expense of trial and error.
May-16-2022 10:41 AM
May-16-2022 10:34 AM
May-16-2022 10:16 AM
May-16-2022 07:44 AM
Grit dog wrote:
Daystar cradle doesn't account for the lift, it allows the bag to not affect suspension travel as much.
Since you just have rear lift blocks, your spring to frame distance hasn't changed, correct?
You need, at a minimum, bags, sway bar and preferably lower stable loads (easy to make these as well).
Those 3 things together is about as good as you can do with stock springs. And it should be "ok" but not great, especially with the lift and big tires working against you.
I would be more inclined to add a very stout set of helper springs (and a sway bar) or a good set of HD lift springs. Both of which will help alot with the camper, but make it ride like a HD truck when empty.
I would only haul that camper on a 9.75" rear axle. If you have the little axle (8.8?), you don't got enough @ss for the checks you're trying to cash!
May-16-2022 07:44 AM
Checkers123 wrote:
After reading more about plumbing the bags this waythere seems to be a con. Curious to hear your thoughts. If you develop a leak or a bag fails, you would have air in one bag and not in the other which would lead to a lop sided load. Whereas if one was leaking but not the other and they're plumbed together, they would slowly loose pressure equally. Or is this not really that big of a deal?
May-16-2022 07:37 AM
BurbMan wrote:
It's tough to manage that extra weight when you're lifted. I would say pay attention to your airbag installation...most times airbags are plumbed to the air line with a tee so they fill together. This doesn't give you any side-to-side stability because when the truck rocks side-to-side all it does is push air from one bag to the other. Either use separate Schrader valves for a bumper fill or a check valves if connected to an onboard compressor.
Depending on the config of your 150 you may or may not have enough payload for that camper as light as it is. You may also need n HD sway bar in the rear to control body roll. I see you're in NJ, if you're planning on hitting the beach with the camper, controlling body roll is priority in the sand.
May-16-2022 05:17 AM
May-16-2022 03:23 AM